Oil Paints: Colors & Properties

by Artist Jackie Stacharowski


©2008 - 2015

www.artistjackie.com

General Information

Here is some general information about the properties of oil paints and how they effect your painting. I only cover specifics for a few, basic oil colors. The general information can be used for most colors as well as to help you understand the information provided by the manufacturers.  Many of the properties are

also true for acrylic paints.


What is Oil Paint? It is a combination of pigment particles suspended in an oil medium, and in most cases, additives to improve the qualities of the paint.


The oil is usually linseed oil, but not limited to it. Other oils are used to modify the consistency of the paint and/or limit the amount the color will change over time. Pigments can be ground very fine or more coarse - it varies among manufacturers and lines.

Grades of Paints

Different manufacturers use different formulas and may produce more then one line of paints.

These lines follow a few common rules:


Student and Craft Paints usually have the least amount of pigment, have the most fillers and are the least expensive.


Artist Quality Paints usually have more pigments, less filler and are relatively more expensive.


Premium Artist (or Signature) Paints have the most pigment and the highest quality medium. These tend to be very intense, saturated paints. When mixed, very little is needed to modify a color. Unless you are very experienced and use these qualities to achieve a certain look, the price may not be worth the extra features.


Like all products, the quantity, quality, cost of materials, shipping, packaging and advertising all play a part in the cost of the paint. You can find better prices at larger stores, or on the Internet, or in a catalogue or at a sale. Use the same shopping techniques that you use for other purchases.


Most paints come in at least 3 sizes: 37 ml (regular), 21 ml or less (small) or 50 ml or more (large). What size to buy? In general, you will use more of your basic white paint then any other, so it makes sense to purchase it in a large size. The basic palette colors are usually best purchased in the regular size. Specialty colors, or fun colors, or colors new to you, buy the smallest size available. Remember, this is just a suggestion, as you get more experience and see which colors you use the most, it may make sense to buy other colors in the large size - adjust your purchases to how you paint.


Another feature, which may vary, is the feel of the paint: how buttery or stiff it feels out of the tube. All colors within a line usually have a common feel. If you like how one color handles, chances are you will like the others in that same line.


The one thing that manufacturers have little control of is the time it takes for a color to dry. The pigment itself plays a major role in how quickly a paint dries. A rule of thumb is that natural earth pigments dry more quickly then synthetic or other pigments. But like most rules of thumb, there are exceptions. Experience is the best teacher for the drying time of paints you use.


Different pigments have other different properties: how intense they are, how easily they mix, how permanent they are, how they react to their environment. As chemical engineering has progressed, new colors are available to manufacturers. Also, we have learned that certain pigments are health hazards (especially the heavy metals, like lead). They are being replaced by synthetic hues that create the same color, but may have slightly different properties.



Mixing Colors

You need to be aware of the color’s properties when using them in a mix. Although the temperature of a color is relative, it is still important: you should only mix warm plus warm or cool plus cool colors together. When you mix warm plus cool - the result is usually muddy and uninteresting. If you are trying to tone down a color, first mix the warm plus warm (or cool plus cool) then add to the mix the complementary color with the same temperature.


This may be more information then you want right now, but if you are having trouble getting the color you want when mixing - double check the temperatures of the colors you are combining.

Color Characteristic

Here is some information on the basic colors. For specific lines, manufacturers provide color charts which include all the colors within that line and the paints’ characteristics. Other qualities such as feel or consistency you need to find out for yourself. A quick reference chart is at the end of this handout.


Whites


Titanium White - a good general use white. It is a strong color that holds its own in a mixture. It is very opaque. You will use more of this then any other color of paint, so purchase it in a large size.


Zinc White - transparent. Good for highlights, clouds, fog and mist. Not usually used in mixing. It is not used in large quantities so purchase it in a small size.


Lead or Flake White- very opaque, & very dangerous. Not recommended.


Mixing White - varies by manufacturer, semi-opaque. It may give inconsistent coverage depending on the transparency of the other colors involved, so I don’t recommend it.


Note - Most every white out of a tube is Cool - if you need a Warm white, you need to mix in a very, very little amount of either yellow ochre or cadmium yellow to warm it up.


Blacks


Mostly used as an additive to produce a darker value of a color. It is possible to mix your own black by combining Ultramarine Blue with Burnt Umber. However, it may be easier to have a tube handy just for darkening another color. Black out of a tube is strong, so you do not need much at all.


Mars and Lamp Black - Cool and opaque. A small size of either one is recommended if you want to have a tube of black on hand.


Ivory Black - Warm and opaque.


Browns


Mostly earth pigments and fairly transparent - although this may vary by manufacturer and lines.


Raw Sienna - golden brown, warm, a regular size tube is recommended.


Burnt Sienna - deeper, reddish brown. warm, a regular size tube is recommended.


Raw Umber - greenish brown, cool, a regular size tube is recommended.


Burnt Umber - deeper greenish brown, cool, a regular size tube is recommended.



Primary Colors

Blues


Most blues are fairly transparent - although this may vary by manufacturer and line, except for Cerulean which is usually opaque.


Ultramarine Blue - cool, regular size tube is recommended.


Cobalt Blue - -warm, regular size tube is recommended.


Cerulean Blue - opaque, warm, regular size tube is recommended.


Reds


Vary greatly among manufacturers and lines. Make sure the tube you buy has the color you expect by checking the manufacturers’ color charts.


Alizarin Crimson- very transparent, and cool. The original formulas are not durable over time, they fade - even mixtures with alizarin in them change over time. There are now available synthetic hues which are permanent - check the label. A regular size tube is recommended.


Cadmium Red - opaque, and very warm. These are very strong paints - when mixing, use very little. A regular size tube is recommended.


Yellows


These vary greatly among manufacturers and lines. Make sure the tube you buy has the color you expect by checking the manufacturers’ color charts.


Cadmium Yellow - opaque and very warm. Like the reds, these are very strong paints - when mixing, use very little at a time. A regular size tube is recommended.


Lemon Yellow - transparent and cool. A regular size tube is recommended.


Yellow Ochre - opaque and warm. A regular size tube is recommended.

Secondary Colors

Greens


You can and should mix many greens, but it is useful to have a couple of tubes of basic greens to use as a starting point - or to use right out of the tube. You know that you can mix a green by combining blue and yellow, but you can also combine yellow and purple as well as yellow and black. Experiment with the colors you have on hand to see what the results are.


Sap green - transparent and warm. A regular size tube is recommended.


Chromium Oxide - opaque and warm - regular size tube is recommended.


Prussian Green - transparent and cool.


Phthalo Green - transparent and cool - some manufacturers’ lines have this almost as a turquoise.


Purples


You can and should mix most of your purples by combining reds and blues. Be careful, the best results are produce by keeping the temperature of the colors consistent. Almost all tube purples are transparent, check the label or the color chart for a particular brand.


Dioxazine Purple - warm, transparent, strong - use caution and small amounts when adding to a mixture.


Cobalt Violet - cool, transparent, weak - you may need more then usual to make a significant difference in a mixture.


Oranges


You mix reds and yellows to create orange, again best results are produce by keeping the temperature of the colors consistent. Tube oranges are almost always cadmiums which are opaque, warm and strong.

Others

With a basic palette you can mix almost any color you want with practice and patience. Each company does produce their own signature colors and adds them to at least one of their lines. Some are wonderful, some are fun and some can be used to create special effects. The more comfortable you are with paints, the more you can experiment. Just remember though it has only been since WWII that most synthetic pigments have been available, so anyone painting prior to that time had only the basic colors to choose from ...

AND LOOK AT WHAT THEY CREATED!!!

Note - there are many flesh or portrait colors available. They usually give just OK results. You need to work with your subject, the setting, the lighting and the reflected colors to create a good painting - these ‘ready to use’ colors don’t take all that into account. So, I do not recommend them.


Remember to practice and play with your paints - you don’t have to work on an “official” painting each time you pick up a paint brush. Learning your tools - colors and brushes - will improve your efforts when you do work on a painting.



HAVE FUN!!!!

Artist Jackie's Oil Paint Guide

Color

Character

Temp.

Strength

Size

Titanium White

opaque

cool

strong

large

Zinc White

transparent

cool

weak

small

Mars & Lamp Black

opaque

cool

strong

small

Raw Sienna

transparent

warm

average

regular

Burnt Sienna

transparent

warm

average

regular

Raw Umber

transparent

cool

average

regular

Burnt Umber

transparent

cool

average

regular

Ultramarine Blue

transparent

cool

average

regular

Cobalt Blue

transparent

warm

average

regular

Cerulean Blue

opaque

warm

weak

regular

Alizarin Crimson *

transparent

cool

average

regular

* check for permanency

Cadmium Red *

opaque

warm

strong

regular

* hue varies

Cadmium Yellow *

opaque

warm

strong

regular

* hue varies

Lemon Yellow

transparent

cool

strong

regular

Yellow Ochre

opaque

warm

average

regular

Sap Green

transparent

warm

weak

regular

Chromium Oxide

semi-opaque *

warm

average

regular

* varies by manufacturer

Prussian Green

transparent

cool

average

small

Phthalo Green

transparent

cool

strong

small

Dioxazine Purple

transparent

warm

strong

small

Cobalt Violet

transparent

cool

weak

small

Cadmium Orange

opaque

warm

strong

small

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All work is copyrighted and subject to Federal Copyright Laws.

All rights are retained by Jackie Stacharowski unless otherwise negotiated.

The viewer of this information understands and agrees that these concepts are the property of Jackie Stacharowski

and may not be copied without the written agreement of the artist.

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